Less than an hour into our weekend break in Amsterdam I’ve already devoured a stroopwaffel, two bitterballen and a steaming plate of stamppot (the Dutch take on sausages and mash). This is hardly surprising. For me — and fellow gourmands — city breaks should favour good food, good coffee and good wine: luckily Amsterdam is very good at all three.

In a city so characterised by nooks and crannies, there’s always something new to stumble upon. So from neighbourhood bakeries to bullet-strong brews, sultry late-night joints to portrait-lined pubs, I’ve narrowed down the Amsterdam cafés and restaurants that are worth pounding the canalside pavements for.

Best for breakfast

Entirely plant-based Saint-Jean Bakery in Jordaan competes with the best of the ‘Dam’s butter-users. There’s a small amount of seating inside, but I’d suggest grabbing croissants and a coffee to go and finding a water-side bench in the sunshine. Three outposts of Screaming Beans are dotted through the cobblestone streets of the city — a refuel at any will result in a perfect flat white and fresh, flaky pastry — plus an excuse to take home one of their skater-style hoodies or graphic T-shirts.

A bit further out of the centre is Louf Oud West (but the pastries are worth the walk). Tantalising trays of freshly baked cinnamon swirls, pain au chocolats and Danishes with inventive toppings (savoury raclette cheese and bresaola; sweet citrus with white-chocolate chantilly) make ordering in a restrained fashion near impossible.

For takeaway, try Luuk’s Coffee in Noordermarkt, serving well-balanced brews and a small selection of baked goods, including vegan chocolate cake. Or there’s retro-tiled Good Beans in Haarlemmerstraat: a slim, speciality coffee house serving up their own brand of, ahem, Fucking Strong Coffee.

Best for brunch

Bakkerij Wolf is conveniently plonked in the centre of the well-heeled De 9 Straatjes district. On the menu there’s omelettes, shakshuka and French toast, but I’d implore you to add a portion of the pillowy focaccia, whatever your order. Over in leafy Oud-West is Staring at Jacob, a proper neighbourhood spot serving huge portions of waffles, pancakes and hot-chicken sandwiches, plus fiery Bloody Marys and Moscow mules. And Little Collins is an institution in the pretty De Pijp district — try the burnt, Basque-style miso cheesecake, salty fried halloumi or slow-cooked brisket.

Best for street food

The sauces seal the deal at Heertje Friet, a bijou chip shop right on the corner of Herengracht Canal. Try the seriously crispy fries drizzled in peanut sauce or truffle mayonnaise (or both), plus a couple of traditional veal bitterballen (balls of rich meat stew that are breaded and fried). Or make a snack stop at Café de Sluyswacht, situated just around the corner from the Rembrandt House Museum. This lopsided pub dating back to 1695 is a sociable water-side bier joint with more bitterballen and platters of Dutch cheeses.

Best restaurants with a view

Café R. de Rosa in Jordaan serves up beautiful small plates and wines (including an extensive selection of orange wines); nab one of the second-floor seats, covetable for the people-watching they afford out to the street and over the café’s lower floor.

In such a low-lying city, it’s hard to come by a restaurant with a sprawling view, but you can catch the sunset over the sloped roofs at Blue Amsterdam. Head to the top floor for a drink and croquette as you take in the view. Once you’ve got your fix, head on to a cosier spot for dinner.

Best for date nights

We’re all for getting ready to go out out, but if you’re residing at Smith stalwart Pulitzer Amsterdam there’s a strong argument for putting on your finest to stay in. You’ve two options: a table in the cosy confines of Jansz restaurant (windows frame the pretty Keizersgracht Canal), which is a purveyor of some of the city’s finest seasonal bistro fare. The menu is made up of carefully considered flavour combinations: dishes include a warming pumpkin-and-buttermilk salad, venison with cabbage and kale oil, and steak tartare with mushroom XO, chives and buckwheat.

Then there’s the alfresco terrace. In summer, it’s known as the Rose Garden: flowerbeds are in full bloom and bottles of rosé wine are kept on ice around the perimeter. The menu features dishes such as oysters, ham croquettes, hake with burnt butter and succulent chicken breast. In colder months it becomes the Winter Garden and shifts to high indulgence: choose from Dutch, Swiss or Italian cheese fondues served with sourdough bread, charcuterie plates and equally rich wine pairings.

Best for traditional Dutch fare

Full of character and warmth, Moeders (Dutch for ‘mothers’) offers a little bit of chaos and a lot of carbs, serving traditional Dutch dishes from stamppot to suddervlees (beef stew with boiled potatoes and red cabbage). If you’re struggling to choose, opt for the Hollandse rijsttafel — a winning combination for two to share featuring all the above and a hachée beef and onion stew, plus all the red cabbage, apple sauce and gravy trimmings. Framed photos of mothers and families line the walls, and it’s fair to say that the homey comfort is echoed in the communal, chatty service and gloriously uncomplicated food.

Best for classic canalside dining

Café Tabac is located on the cusp of the Brouwesgracht Canal. From the exterior it resembles a typical Dutch ‘bruin café’, but step inside and you’ll find a menu spotlighting Indonesian fare. In an unexpected mash-up, diners can watch the typical tangle of bikes whizz by as they tuck into beef rendang, spicy gado-gado salad and chicken satay.

Best for low-lit, late-night meals

At fusion-fare joint Barrica, meals are all about sharing. Pick a bottle from the exquisite wine list and a couple of tapas to share with your companion. Sure, you could feasibly drop in at any hour, but this restaurant really comes into its own when the lights are low and candles are lit.

Or you might be very content to spend all night at Sins of Sal, where the bearded barmen choreograph cocktails in the open-facing bar (the Flip-Flop Margarita with melon and pepperleaf is silky smooth); meanwhile the chef is busy firing, charring and plating a menu dedicated to the flavours of Latin America in the open kitchen. It’s a snug space, which feels more akin to a dinner party than a restaurant, and service is such that you might as well be the sole diners. Succumb to the suggestion of a mezcal pairing — it will prove a worthwhile spiritual education and send you on your merry way for the rest of the evening.

Best for a nightcap

For end-of-night cocktails and convivial bartenders, try the Art Deco-style Pulitzer’s Bar, discreetly tucked down the labyrinth-like canal house hallways. Lights are low and drinks are strong: try the Martini made with vodka, butter and sage; or the navy Highball with rum, sesame and blackberry.

Explore more of the city with our guide to 48 hours in Amsterdam, then browse our full collection of hotels in Amsterdam