Q: I don’t know what has happened to my lawn. It’s about 4 years old and has developed bare spots, as you can see in the photo. Can you give me any suggestions on what to do?
A: I’ve received many similar emails this spring, indicating many homeowners are struggling with similar dead spots in some parts of their lawn.
The lack of insulating snow cover this winter, accompanied by cold temperatures, creates a combination that can cause the die-out of grass patches.
In some lawns, certain parts look fine, while other areas have dead patches. The difference might be explained by the differences in how snow lies, swirling wind patterns, how deeply cold penetrates the soil in different places within a yard or how much sun or shade different areas receive.
Regardless of the exact cause of the patches, the remedy is similar. Rake the areas vigorously to expose some soil, and then overseed with a grass blend containing at least 50% Kentucky Bluegrass cultivars plus creeping red fescue, which thrives in shaded portions of the lawn.
The single most determining factor in establishing newly seeded lawn areas is keeping the surface “dark moist.” If newly seeded areas dry out as the seed is sprouting, seedlings can quickly die.
For a healthy turf better capable of resisting lawn problems, fertilize both Memorial Day and Labor Day, mow no shorter than 3 to 4 inches, mulch clippings back into the lawn instead of bagging, and water deeply but less often.
Q: Is there such a thing as an herbicide that can be used to kill weeds and not kill flowers? I know about pre-emergent products and products that can safely be used to kill grass. — Craig S.
A: Yours is a commonly longed-for remedy for weeds in annual and perennial flowers. If such a product existed, my life would be much easier, along with most gardeners.
An herbicide that could selectively kill weeds without affecting annual or perennial flowers would be remarkable, such as removing dandelions from the middle of a peony.
But a weed killer that can simply be sprayed over the top of everything, taking out the weeds while leaving flowers unharmed doesn’t exist yet.
I’m afraid we are in for a long wait, as there are too many different types of weeds and too many different types of annual and perennial flowers. Many weeds and desirable flowers are too closely related to expect a product to kill one without harming the other.
You’re familiar, as you said, with the tools we have so far: preemergent herbicides that kill weed seeds as they sprout and grass-killing herbicides that are specific to grass-type weeds.
In the meantime, spot-treating, digging, hoeing and smothering with mulch or other materials are our best options.
Q: I started tomato plants indoors too early this year and they’re really tall and spindly. Will it work to cut them back when I plant them? — John M.
A: Instead of cutting back too-tall tomato plants, just plant them deeply. Tomato plants have the amazing ability to root all along the buried stem, which creates a healthy plant with a generous root system.
When planting tall tomato transplants, remove leaves that would be below soil level, and install the plants deeply, or lay them in a trench, so only the upper section of leaves is above soil. Not only will the plants root along the buried stem, but they’ll be less prone to wind whipping.
If you have a gardening or lawn care question, email Don Kinzler, NDSU Extension-Cass County, at
. Questions with broad appeal may be published, so please include your name, city and state for appropriate advice.
